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You’ll notice the difference from the Israeli baptismal site immediately. Instead of a large, modern and busy visitors centre, complete with disabled ramp, souvenir shop and cafe, there is almost nothing, bar a church and a simple gazebo containing a font.
Stark is one way to describe the Jordanian site at Bethany, some 27 miles west of Amman, and not far from the Dead Sea. Another way is reflective. For
here, the simplicity and stillness that awaits the pilgrim by the banks of the River Jordan is extraordinary.
Pilgrims can gather round the font and be led in devotions. As the font contains water from the river, they can be Christened or simply wash their hands. The adventurous can even paddle in the water of the river itself – or fill up their own water bottle as a souvenir.
The church at the site is Orthodox and, like much of the site, has only recently been constructed. The visitors’ centre, containing gardens, a pedestrian trail, a restaurant and a souk, is a short walk away from the river; this helps preserve the special nature of the possible baptismal site.
Despite all this peace and tranquillity, one needs to remember that this is actually a border between two countries. As such, soldiers from both the Jordanian and Israeli armies are in evidence on both sides of the river’s banks. However, there is no sense of threat, and (if they speak English) both are more than happy to share greetings with you.
Is this site any more valid that the one claimed by the Israelis? This is a hard question to answer. John 1:28 states, ‘This all happened at Bethany on the other side of the Jordan, where John was baptising.’ The area forms part of a pilgrimage oute for early Christians and it is also thought that this is close to where Elijah ascended to heaven in a whirlwind on a chariot of fire after crossing the Jordan. Remains of a Byzantine church have also been found nearby.
As we don’t know for certain, we can only visit both sites and make up our own minds.
Phil Creighton
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